Peptides are everywhere: in your favorite serum, on your TikTok FYP, and for many people, injected as part of a “stack” meant to help reduce appetite, stimulate muscle growth, or (purportedly) support longevity, often with code-like names of capital letters and numbers trailing behind. While GLP-1 is definitely the most famous peptide in the game—either you’re on one or know someone who is—a new group of peptides may be making their way into our collective consciousness, if current Health Secretary Robert F. Kennedy, Jr. has his way.
As reported by the New York Times, the Food & Drug Administration (FDA) is likely to lift prior restrictions on a handful of previously banned peptides, in part due to urging from Kennedy. (A meeting to evaluate seven of these peptides is set for July.) This, however, does not mean that the peptides would automatically receive FDA approval. In 2023, the 14 peptides in question were removed from production due to potential safety risks and include several with alleged beauty benefits. But as the NYT notes, though the 14 peptides were technically restricted by the government—meaning compounding pharmacies were not allowed to produce them—consumers could still purchase them via the online “gray market” and play doctor from the comfort of their kitchen.
What are Peptides, Anyway?
Let’s back up a bit. The word “peptide” has become a mainstay of skin-care marketing lingo and collagen drink mixes, but what do peptides actually do? “Peptides are best understood as targeted signaling molecules. They tell the body to upregulate processes it already knows how to do, such as repair, regeneration, or metabolic regulation,” explains Amanda Kahn, MD, a board-certified internist in New York City.
“In practice, they can support areas like body composition, recovery, skin quality, hair growth, and inflammation when used appropriately.” (Peptides that you apply topically may have limited penetration into the skin, depending on formulation.)
But what peptides cannot do, she adds, is “act as a replacement for foundational health.” Peptides are not a substitute for things like proper nutrition, sleep, and medical care, Dr. Kahn continues, adding that patients are drawn to the “precision and personalization” of peptides, which allow for a more tailored approach to treatment.
GLP-1s have dominated the peptide game—and the cultural conversation—for the past few years, but Jeffrey Lee, MD, a board-certified plastic surgeon in Boston, notes that there are many others emerging, and they may have a “wide range” of effects. Some of the restricted peptides may have potential benefits for immune function, healthy aging, healing, and metabolism, he says, and many others are “being explored for similar benefits related to overall tissue health.”
Which Peptides are on the Banned List?
Included on the “banned” list is epitalon, which claims to support hair and scalp health; GHK-Cu, which reportedly provides antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits; KPV, which may help reduce skin conditions like eczema; and Melanotan II, which has been used to increase tanning abilities. While these claims sound promising (except for the one that makes it easier to tan), the 2023 FDA findings reveal that these peptides may come with significant safety risks; for example, Melanotan II can increase the risk of melanoma. Others, like KPV and GHK-Cu, don’t have adequate safety data in humans.
When we say peptides are everywhere, we mean it. “Every pharmacy here in Los Angeles… is formulating them and distributing them,” says Ava Shamban, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in California. “And all over the country, for sure, even though they’re not approved by the FDA.” Dr. Shamban, who has served as a clinical investigator on many FDA trials, notes that when a product is approved by the FDA, it first requires a “fairly expensive” trial process. “The fact that these [peptides] are widely available means there’s no one company that started taking the reins and saying, ‘We’re going to take this combination and then we’re going to study XYZ,’” she explains. The other issue would be limiting variables like exercise level, nutrition, and sleep, which can also impact improvement, she notes. “That’s what’s really going to prevent them from ever getting the FDA-approved form.”
