This is potentially huge news for the group of people whom I can anecdotally confirm find the old formula is too harsh for their skin. “If endophytol helps with inflammation, as it claims, it would be a fantastic addition to the formula considering pure ascorbic acid formulas tend to be irritating for many,” Perkins says. “This would signal to me that they are listening to their consumer feedback and improving their formula in ways that would make it both more efficacious and more friendly to use.” (SkinCeuticals’ research team has conducted in vitro ingredient studies on endophytol, but they will not have results of those studies until closer to the end of this year or early next year.)
New Ingredient: Carnosine
The second new ingredient is carnosine, another antioxidant and dipeptide that Perkins says—unlike endophytol—has been used in skin care for a while. “Simply put, it can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” she explains, noting that the addition “aligns with the longevity trend booming in the skin-care space right now.” (See? Inescapable.)
Lynch says they added carnosine to the already antioxidant-packed formula after realizing that “vitamin C is maybe not the best ingredient to fight glycation,” a natural process that can lead to early signs of aging, like the aforementioned fine lines and wrinkles, as well as skin sallowness. “We think carnosine is a really great ingredient for this,” Lynch says. Vitamin C, he adds, also helps improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, but its real strength is in brightening and combatting discoloration. The addition of carnosine is meant to complement the ascorbic acid for even more noticeable results.
Scent and Texture Differences
While our editors believe there’s a slight difference in the texture and scent of the new formula, Lynch says loyal customers should expect them to be about the same. Of the texture—a rich-but-lightweight liquid that feels quite hydrating for a serum—Lynch says, “It’s going to be very similar to all our consumers. I think they’ll enjoy it.”
The legendary hot-dog scent isn’t going anywhere, either, because as Lynch says, it comes from the blend of ingredients in the original formula, which isn’t being eliminated.
Packaging Differences
There is no visible difference in the new packaging: CEF will still come in an amber, 1-ounce bottle with a dropper applicator. The new label is exactly the same as the original, with no special mention of the two new ingredients anywhere other than the ingredient list.
That’s it! Otherwise, the product—and the price point of $185—remains the same. “It was really a challenging project,” Lynch says of trying to update the product without disappointing hoards of loyal fans. “I’m really proud of the way we were able to keep the essence of the original formula.”
Editor Reviews
I got a bottle of the new formula only about a week before launch, so my impressions are still very much in the “first” stage. To me, the serum texture (lightweight with a touch of hydration) feels and smells (like the OG, often described as “hot-dog water,” a scent I find comforting) about the same as the original. My skin has neither been instantly transformed nor irritated, but I didn’t have any sensitivity with the old formula, either.
