Frequently Asked Questions
How do chemical peels work?
“Chemical face peels, a.k.a. exfoliating acid masks, work by penetrating the outer layers of the skin, breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells and stimulating the production of collagen and elastin,” explains Shereene Idriss, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City. Most at-home treatments are not deep peels, but rather superficial, making them appropriate for everyday folks to use without the assistance of a dermatologist or esthetician.
“At-home chemical peels typically rely on AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) like glycolic and lactic acid or a BHA (beta hydroxy acid) like salicylic acid to exfoliate the skin,” says Mamina Turegano, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New Orleans. “More gentle peels will include fruit enzymes.” She advises against the use of phenol peels at home, as they’re very intense and should only be used for in-office treatments.
What ingredients should you look for in a chemical peel?
Not all exfoliating acids are created equal. After all, who among us has the same skin concerns? “When looking for an exfoliating acid product, it’s important to find the right one(s) for your skin type and needs,” cautions Dr. Idriss. Here are some of our dermatologists’ recommendations:
- Glycolic Acid: Helps stimulate collagen and reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and works well for dry skin
- Salicylic Acid: Unclogs your pores and regulates sebum production, making it ideal for anyone with oily, acne-prone skin
- Fruit Enzymes: Great for beginners and those with sensitive skin, as they’re more gentle exfoliants
- Lactic Acid: Helps with brightening and treating keratosis pilaris
- Mandelic Acid: Ideal for deeper skin tones and those with sensitivity since it has a larger molecular size compared to other AHAs, and penetrates the skin more slowly and uniformly
- Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs): Gluconolactone, lactobionic acid, and maltobionic acid are great for super sensitive skin as they are the most gentle group with the largest molecular size, per Dr. Idriss.
What does aftercare look like post-peel?
For a week leading up to a chemical peel, Dr. Turegano finds it helpful to use a gentle exfoliant so that your skin can better absorb the ingredients during the chemical peel. “I would also use ingredients to improve your skin’s health, like vitamin C serums and peptide serums,” she says.
Dr. Kim notes that after a peel, protecting your skin with a broad-spectrum SPF 30 (or higher) is essential.”It’s important to use sunscreen every day when you’re going to use acids regularly, so your skin doesn’t feel more sensitive to the sun,” he says. “It’s best to avoid the sun as much as possible the next day, and you should probably skip a peel before heading to the beach or on a sunny vacation.” And while they’re all the rage right now, he says you don’t necessarily need specific barrier cream after your peel and that a regular moisturizer suffices. Dr. Turegano recommends a thicker moisturizer if you have one on hand, and also encourages the use of peptide or growth factor serums, but it’s important to check your peel’s box or label to make sure these serums won’t interact with the peel you used.
All of our experts generally advise avoiding retinol, AHAs, BHAs, and physical exfoliants for a few days following the use of a chemical peel to avoid excess irritation. “This timeline can vary from person to person and is also dependent on the type of peel,” notes Dr. Turegano.
Meet the experts
- Brendan Camp, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology: Medical Dermatology & Cosmetic Surgery, based in New York City
- Mona Gohara, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Hamden, Connecticut
- Shereene Idriss, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Dr. Idriss Skincare, based in New York City
- David Kim, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at New York Dermatology Group, based in New York City
- Sarah Chung Park, founder and CEO of beauty distributor Landing International and creator of K-Beauty World at Ulta Beauty based in Los Angeles
- Ruth McTighe, MD, a board-certified dermatologist of Waccamaw Dermatology based in Mt. Pleasant, South Carolina
- Mamina Turegano, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New Orleans
- Heather Woolery-Lloyd, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Miami
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When Allure tests a product, our editors look at it from every angle in an effort to best serve you. We review ingredients, scrutinize brand claims, and, when necessary, examine peer-reviewed scientific and medical studies. In addition to testing each and every product that’s included in each and every review, we rely on experts who shape their fields, including dermatology, cosmetic chemistry, and medicine, to help us vet the ingredients and formulas.
For our list of the best chemical peels, we considered each product’s performance across five primary categories: product ingredients and efficacy, packaging, fragrance, texture, and product wear. Every product was determined to have excelled in each category by our editorial team, which is composed of in-house writers and editors as well as contributors—along with special consideration from board-certified dermatologists. To learn more information on our reporting and testing processes, read our complete reviews process and methodology page.
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Now, watch Keke Palmer, Eiza González, and more spill secrets after sipping the truth serum:
