Deciding to go natural is a major decision. If you’ve been perming your hair for years, the thought alone can feel overwhelming—there may be a swirl of questions in your mind, the biggest one probably being: blend your new growth with your relaxed mid-lengths and ends, or do a big chop?
“For many, the big chop signifies renewal, rebirth, and a chance to see the real you that has been hiding right beneath the surface,” says Lorraine Massey, owner of Spiral (x,y,z) salon. But if you’re not quite ready for a big reveal, you have other options. You can slowly cut away your relaxed ends until you reach the final destination: 100 percent natural—this is called transitioning.
The transitioning process is different for everyone. “The amount of time it takes to completely transition depends on the length of your relaxed hair, how often you trim or cut off the relaxed hair, and how fast your hair grows,” says Sophia Emmanuel, a cosmetologist at Crown Worthy NYC.
Brendnetta Ashley, a hairstylist in San Francisco, warns all her clients who choose to transition that “eventually, it’s going to get to a point where you have two different textures,” she says. “You have the mid-lengths and the ends, which have been living on the head the longest, and are straight and delicate from chemical processing. Then you have your new growth, your curly texture.” As your natural hair continues to grow in, that line of demarcation becomes more pronounced—and often more challenging to manage.
If you’re in that stage now (or approaching it), the process doesn’t have to feel overwhelming. Working with a stylist who understands your texture and long-term goals can make all the difference. “This is where you have to start having very serious conversations with your stylist,” says Ashley, who notes that topics like timing a big chop and which styles to avoid should be discussed early.
And if regular salon visits aren’t feasible—or you want to feel more informed between appointments—these expert-approved tips can make the journey more seamless. Ahead, pro hairstylists advise on how to transition out of a relaxer while minimizing breakage and maintaining confidence in your hair.
Focus on moisturizing and repairing the hair
Relaxers alter the structure of your hair by “breaking disulfide bonds in the hair to loosen your curl pattern,” cosmetic chemist Erica Douglas previously told Allure. Douglas explains that this makes the strands weaker, so focusing on conditioning and strengthening the hair will be most beneficial as you transition. Use conditioners that include bond-building formulas and ingredients like the Olaplex No.5 Hydrating Curl Conditioner or the Redken Acidic Bonding Curls Conditioner.
