Frequently Asked Questions
What are the most common types of retinol found in skin-care products?
The topical retinoids most commonly used in skin care are retinoic acid, retinol, retinyl esters, and retinaldehyde. As for their benefits, “[retinoids] are keratolytics, which means they increase skin cell turnover and are known to stimulate collagen synthesis,” Sheila Farhang, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Tucson, told Allure.
While retinoic acid (also known as tretinoin) is only found in prescription formulas, retinol is the most common vitamin A derivative that pops up in over-the-counter (OTC) skin-care products—and it’s arguably just as effective. “There’s a lot of literature showing that while retinol is more gentle than retinoic acid, biochemically it does exactly the same thing—it may just take longer to see results,” Dana Sachs, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Perrysville, Ohio, told Allure.
You might be surprised to learn this, but retinaldehyde (often referred to as retinal) is actually closer in efficacy to retinoic acid than retinol is, as “[retinal] can be directly converted to retinoic acid and is more stable than retinol,” Dr. Kim explains.
On the other hand, there’s also a group of retinyl esters that are gentler on the skin but less effective. “Products that are designed for sensitive skin typically have retinyl palmitate (a type of pro-retinol), but because it has to be converted to retinol before it becomes retinoic acid (the active form), it is not as potent as retinol,” Dr. Kim explains.
What concentrations do you recommend for patients just starting out with retinoids?
Even for beginners, there’s no one correct dosage. “If they have sensitive skin, I typically start them on 0.25% and have them use it twice a week,” Dr. Kim recommends. “If they have regular skin, I start them on 0.5% twice weekly, and if they have really oily skin, I typically start them on a prescription retinoic acid twice weekly right away.”
In terms of incorporating retinoids into your serums versus creams, it’s up to your personal preferences. However, some dermatologists, including Dr. Chang, prefer retinol serums followed by a soothing moisturizer to minimize any potential side effects such as irritation, dry skin, or flaking.
What active ingredients should be avoided when using retinol?
Dr. Kim cautions against using any exfoliating acids, including AHAs (like glycolic and lactic acid), BHAs (like salicylic acid), and PHAs, as they can further irritate the skin. However, if you’d like to incorporate both without causing irritation and inflammation, try alternating days between the two types of formulations.
What’s a must? Sunscreen. Even though you already should be wearing sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher every single day (rain or shine; indoors or outdoors), retinol “makes your skin more easily prone to burning,” as Dr. Chang noted, so it’s even more critical to layer up.
How often should you be using a retinol serum?
In an ideal world, every night, according to Dr. Kim. But for those who can’t, he recommends two to three times a week. “For patients trying to improve and target hyperpigmentation, I have them alternate gentle acids and retinol every other day.”
If you have sensitive skin, try the dermatologist-approved sandwiching technique. All it takes is a layer of moisturizer before and after your retinol of choice to soften the blow, so to speak. And fret not: “Studies have shown that this base layer of moisturizer does not dilute or reduce the efficacy of the retinoid, but instead helps with tolerability,” says New York City-based board-certified dermatologist Shari Marchbein, MD.
As for the morning, while you don’t need to reach for a cleanser to wash off retinol products, Dr. Kim recommends that everyone wash their face with lukewarm (not hot) water in the morning to rinse away sweat accumulated while sleeping.
Does retinol help with acne?
In short, yes. Because retinoids boost cell turnover, they do a fantastic job unclogging pores and targeting uneven texture. “Higher levels of retinol (0.5% or higher) or prescription-strength retinoic acid are the most effective at making the biggest difference,” Dr. Kim notes, adding that these concentrations will also “improve hyperpigmentation and acne scars.”
Can you apply retinol anywhere other than your face?
Absolutely. “Retinol can help improve texture, crepiness, and hyperpigmentation on all areas of the skin,” says Nazanin Saedi, MD, a double board-certified dermatologist based in Plymouth Meeting, Pennsylvania. She recommends using a retinol product on your neck, chest, arms, and legs, in addition to your face.
Which moisturizer should you use with a retinol?
Don’t overthink it. Dr. Saedi recommends looking for something with soothing, skin barrier-focused ingredients that can combat the irritation and dryness you might notice when you first start (or increase) your retinol usage. Check the packaging for restorative ceramides and redness-reducing niacinamide. Her top picks? CeraVe’s Moisturizing Cream and La Roche Posay’s Toleriane Double Repair Face Moisturizer, which are both easy to find at the drugstore.
Meet the experts
- Vivian Bucay, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Bucay Center for Dermatology and Aesthetics, based in San Antonio
- Anna Chacon, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Miami
- Caroline Chang, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in East Greenwich, Rhode Island and the founder of Rhode Island Dermatology Institute
- Sheila Farhang, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Tucson and founder of Avant Dermatology & Aesthetics
- David Kim, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City and founder of Lightsaver
- Hannah Kopelman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Kopelman Hair Restoration based in New York City
- Shari Marchbein, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City
- Dana Sachs, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Perrysburg, Ohio
- Mamina Turegano, MD, a triple-board-certified dermatologist based in New Orleans
- Nazanin Saedi, MD, a double board-certified dermatologist based in Plymouth Meeting, Pennsylvania
- Hallie McDonald, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Austin and the cofounder of Erly
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