A Closer Look at the Formula
Dr. Barbara Sturm’s formula doesn’t rely on just one peptide. Are you ready? You’ve got acetyl octapeptide-3 and hexapeptide-3, often referred to as “neurotransmitter-inhibiting” peptides, which help limit muscle contractions so, over time, expression lines look a little softer. As Dr. Ibrahim explains, “they work similarly in concept to Botox by dialing down the intensity of repeated facial movements.” Then there’s palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (a.k.a. Matrixyl), a longtime staple that signals fibroblasts to produce more collagen and elastin. Rounding things out, acetyl-tetrapeptide-2 and decapeptide-4 “support collagen production and act a bit like growth factors, encouraging overall skin repair,” adds Dr. Ibrahim.
Then there are supporting ingredients, including amino acids—glycine, proline, and arginine—which, as Dr. Safaee explains, “are essential building blocks of collagen itself.” In other words, peptides tell the skin what to make; amino acids make it happen.
And importantly, the formula doesn’t forget about hydration: Hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and a mix of oils and butters keep the barrier intact. Because, as Dr. Ibrahim points out, “there’s no point in stimulating collagen if your skin barrier is too compromised to function properly.”
First Impressions
It’s more milky than I expected from a serum, but it makes sense once you look at the formula: As mentioned, there are water-binding humectants like glycerin and hyaluronic acid, but also emollients and lipids—think shea butter, sunflower oil, almond oil, and vitamin E—suspended into that base. That combination gives it that softly opaque, almost lotion-like look.
